Review – Gucci, Prabal Gurung, Versace
Giannini created the most ready-to-wear and functional assortment yet, this pre-fall. Taking a break from sexy, the Gucci woman was dressed in borderline masculine garbs with perfectly structured silhouettes. Repetitions of double breasted jackets, shift dresses and several variations of pants set the tone of the collection. Colour blocking was used in shades of teal, mustard, magenta and dirty orange thronged in the middle of classics- blacks and whites. This collection was a depiction of the brand’s basics, the fundamental components. Models appeared in chic deerskin caps wearing hefty fur jackets and sporting leather in every possible detail- from a stiff shirt to piping details to collar and cuff lapels. Embracing piece on piece, more was covered than revealed; a strong emphasis on layering was in attendance. But all wasn’t lost in casual daywear; a few dresses were bejeweled and showed off a slit or a deep V for the swanky evenings spent by the glitterati crowd, the brand swears by.
The designer moved on from his PVC fixation of last season to what he described as “Sportswear with couture details.” The made to measure finesse reflected in the way he finely tailored his blazers with asymmetrical lapels, a dream fit for the body in question. Then there was delicate pleated fabric, frills front and back and peplum insertions juxtaposed on boxy tops and cropped trousers. Layering turtle necks under each garment was a notable feature- be it a high low dress, the leather clad coat or the black and white evening gown, it underlay all. His idea of sportswear seeped in through the pant cum sweatpants versions on elbow cutout tops. Though, a few pieces bragging of humongous 3D ruffled flowers was more of a summer recap from Dries Van Noten’s gold lamé creations, sans the diamond strings ofcourse. But, he soon bounced back with the geometric cross weave pattern on a cape, pair of pants, a fur top and the addition of small sections of ostrich feathers for a touch of not just femininity, but high fashion femininity. The palette of the final pieces left us reminiscing of the icy pastels he went on a trip with in spring while depicting his perfect 60’s summer!
Donatella conveyed her usual rocker vision blended with shots of mod feminine. Immersing B&W shots in the line made the icy pastels stand out with the rare colour explosions of the neon prints. Fixed pleated skirts paired with masculine T-shirts and sweatshirts gave a street inspired finish to every delicate creation. Leather was present in abundance, with studs and in a distressed form. Forget the long slithering dresses of past seasons; the final pieces were shorter than short. The feminine ensembles were draped and wrapped in a leg baring sultry manner. Two pieces recognized as the winter must haves- the striking green boxy coat boasting of a bejeweled collar and zipper detailing on the sleeve; and the mink quilted jacket with studs galore looking opulent as ever.