New York Fashion Week 2014
New York Fashion Week 2014
Bhibhu Mohapatra’s collection took on a stronger character for spring- The contours were cleaner, the prints more intricate and the cohesive statement was fiercer (although, not lacking in designer’s inclination towards softer aesthetics). The lush print of an exotic flower- a recurring facet of the collection- blossomed spectacularly on tulip dresses, pleated knee lengths and boxy blouses in shades of champagne, green and berry. The floral story continued on icy-coloured gowns as striking 3-D embellishment; while it was used as a sectional spread on a pale pink silk dress extending to a flair of girly pleats, the sheer uppers of trailing gowns were shrouded generously in tiny, pastel flowers. The garden print, in the latter half, was veiled by fragmented geometrical graphics where the sparsely placed pattern on a waxy, ball gown resembled a medieval glass mosaic and the dense laser cutwork on a tangerine gown, was set like a structure of broken glass. The collection did break into newer moulds of design, clarified by the designer’s ode to ‘new beginnings’, the underlined theme of the collection.
Francisco Costa’s spring summer offering was less sexual, minus the bare midriffs and conical bustiers from past seasons, and more minimal with relaxed silhouettes. What was refreshingly new was his approach towards deconstruction- and deconstruct he did- almost too literally. Details like exposed seam allowances, unfinished hems with dangling threads and parts of fabrics cut up then sewn together haphazardly to resemble patchwork, all justified the theme. A couple of pieces put together in handwoven cotton tweed in red, mint and emerald green looked simple in construction and yet gave the impression of extra fabric being clipped at the sides to give the silhouette shape. Knife pleated knee length skirts and carpenter pants kept the looks stress-free with a few sheer knits thrown in. And as if the multi coloured threads running down the dresses and coats weren’t revealing enough, the last few evening numbers saw the designer playing with fringes in all creative ways possible, including pulling apart threads of a fabric to create elegant red carpet ensembles.
Graphic intervention: Jeremy Scott like last season presented a vivid compilation of whacky and vibrant. It was a jamboree of colour and print, poles apart from what the rest of New York fashion opted for this season. The silhouette though was a 50’s derivation much like many others. The opening prints of test colour bars from the old television sets were a direct but imaginative interpretation. This was followed up by some toon faces although different but reminiscent of the designer’s creations from last season and then there were the squiggle prints developed in collaboration with the Pop artist, Kenny Scharf. Short body cons and cropped tops were a familiar sight and so was an oversized sweat with short shorts with “I’M A MESS” message. The use of PVC with zippers all over the surface and a sequence of long and lean cut-out dresses with quirky print work were other elements of Scott’s idiosyncrasy.
Being in the venerable place he is in his career, Marc Jacobs is as much a maverick, still possessing the utter eccentricity in his work that makes you say, “What is it about?” That’s exactly what happened at the Spring 2014 showcase themed, somewhat destructive. ‘Different’ echoed throughout, in the set, the clothes and the palpable intent of the unflinchingly inventive designer. He had his own oddball story to tell in the midst of the otherwise well aligned slew of shows at the New York installment of the fashion event for the season. The clothes had a Victorian volume on the jackets and intricate detailing of appliqué, embroidery and tassel in juxtaposition with the contemporary sweatshirts and shorts. There were large hibiscus prints, shorts sets, lean full-length dresses and some below the knee skirts. A section of midi-length dresses accounted for the sheer and shimmer quotient, followed by the closing set of Renaissance Goth dresses. The tone of the show was dark as the designer said, “It’s a lovely nightmare” and so were the colours of the clothes that came in maroon, black, navy, brown and bottle green.
The relatively new designer, this summer, definitely left the audience with quizzical faces, wondering what inspired her collection to turn out to be the amalgam it was. Exactly when she left her fixation for boho, she plunged into diverse themes of casual, punk, minimal, safari, all at the same time. Talking about separate looks, the giraffe print on an overcoat and skirt was paired up well along with a shimmering sequin ensemble of yoga pants and a top. Then there were leather biker jackets for the rocker chic, frayed denim for the 80’s consumer, sheer lace dresses for a feminine dose and mesh garments for the modern. The collection lacked a clear sense of direction, with the all white minimal pieces springing up in the middle, being the only thing left to be desired.
Image courtesy: www.style.com