Paris Fashion Week Spring 2014
Paris Fashion Week Spring 2014
Review- Balmain, Hermès, Louis Vuitton
Harlequins reigned over the Balmain runway last summer, this time, it was houndstooth and gingham. Oliver Rousteing claimed the collection was more “him”, relaxed and sporty- even the models wore their hair down, in lieu of the usual slicked back. The construction of the garments, statement gold chains, buttons and belts resonated deeply, in relation to his Resort line. Leather and head-to-toe denim was used unapologetically. Only Balmain can mold out quilted leather to create bomber jackets cinched at the waist by wrestler belts, pants and fit-and-flare skirts with stacked box pleats or frills, with ease. Obvious trends embedded in the show- the one piece, wrap slit skirts and 3D flowers. Sheer lace blouses, a cut out check pattern on dresses and plumage were delicate elements, rather new to Oliver’s hard hitting signature style. The summer palette remained monochromed, with splashes of pale pink and blue and one innovative piece worthy of attention was a structured dress with folded panels creating pockets, the same Resort version rocked by Kate Hudson for her “Clear History” premiere on the red carpet.
Christopher Lemaire switched from fall’s romantic tale to jungle escapades for spring 2014. Enveloped in prints that captured forest flora in its rawest form, models emerged as aggressive hunter women, dressed for an intense voyage and not fancy leisure. The ensembles- rooted in a character of functionality- found solace in appropriate calf length skirts and cinched dresses. Skirts, as separates, had a tale of their own with variations unfolding in draped pencil skirts, high-waist tulip shapes ending in frayed hems and waistlines and roomy skirts with wide, sporty waistbands. In a classic Hermès twist, Lemaire waged an indulgence of sort by casually silhouetting a skirt in exquisite crocodile leather, and in another look, by working supple sap green leather into a somber wrap dress. Apart from occasional sightings of double-breasted trenches and paneled leather blazers, the designer threw in a lively mix of breezy daywear blouses, pleated culottes and formal trousers. The viability of the collection, however, fell heavily on its ideal palette as the usual beige and off-white, this time, took a step aside to let the colours of the jungle- leafy green, teal, purple, warm blue and dusty tangerine- do the talking.
The formerly prissy Louis Vuitton has come a long way, in the shadow of Mr. Marc Jacobs, who by all means- and with a unanimous consent of fashion critics all over- is a fashion maven. The spring of 2014 for LV stood for the dream Jacobs weaved out for the luxury house, churning out not only brilliance every season, but rubbing his own seductive glamour on the cautious ethos of the brand. As Marc Jacobs exited the label after a glorious 16 year reign, he strategically exploited his last showcase to leave a lasting image of the breed he built the brand in. He ruffled through his iconic inspirations, fittingly halting at the charisma of ‘showgirls’ and had his spirited models marching in tulle ensembles- slip gowns, sheer leggings, maillots et al- abundantly splashed in ornate embroideries, glossy sequin, mirrored beads and dramatic feathers and plumage. Although, the intent of ankle length jeans could have been easily misplaced amidst Jacob’s well-laid theatrics, it was instantly revived by the sparkling biker jacket harking back a certain street wear sensibility, a quality he has picked along his American journey. The opening act of a model swathed in a LV logoed bodysuit flanked by an exaggerated feathery headgear is an image that will be etched for the showmanship and provocation Marc Jacobs personifies.
Image courtesy: www.style.com