Themes & Projections Autumn/Winter 2016-17
Themes & Projections Autumn/Winter 2016-17
Looking into the crystal ball this season, it is shaping up to be an exciting autumn/winter for the fashion. The fabrics are readying for the brutal weather, they protect and still manage to be lightweight. Influenced by the Scots, psychedelia or high on active wear – there is a plethora of trends to choose from. The colours of the season are influenced by the evolving human psyche, moody and sombre one moment and gregarious and tangerine the next. They take into account the alienating modern world and cater to contradicting forces alternatively. Silhouettes for fall are in transition from shirtdresses to polo minis and blurring the line between the formal and the casual. Even as the silhouettes cross over, the themes of the season are steadfast and visible in trends emerging across the board. Metallics are all pervasive, in women’s wear, décor and are influencing trends for the coming season; the oriental influence a close second, and a collection of predictions for themes, fabric, colour and silhouette should keep you informed till the next season.
Acid culture boomed in the 1960s with the hippie phase that introduced the world to psychedelic rave. Acid or LSD ushered in a pop culture that worked on the lines of gaining world peace. This also impacted Acid House music and dance scene later in the 1980’s Britain and in fashion of the 1990’s. The mind-bending effects of the drug inspired psychedelic colours, over-saturated shades, swirling patterns and intricate detailing. Owing to designers like Oscar de la Renta and Christopher Kane, neon shades can be worn without looking jarring. Ranging from loud pastel hues to rich patterns to exotic prints, designers will be capturing the very essence of this style. These energetic shades are set for a comeback and instead of just street style; they’ll be infused with neutrals for a high-end look. Fluorescent hues of yellow, orange, pink and green shed light on the endless permutations with added gloss and dazed effects.
Fashion of the 1980s can be summed up in two words: bold and flashy. As shoulders got bigger, the lifestyles got more glamorous and up-market fashion meant expensive dressing. Women expressed wealth through shiny costume jewellery, lots of sequins and metallic accessories like bags, belt, buttons and shoes. This craze is re-establishing itself, whether the trend comes in the form of cool silvers or rich golds. Since metallics have been present for so long, it will be vital to keep things new. Reflecting fabrics that create body-sculpting looks, using lurex for more fluid silhouettes or using foil prints on the garments. They will all have a fresh look when there is experimentation with texture and embellishments. Neither will the final looks be too minimal nor will they mirror the excess of the past: they will simply unify the dominating trends with an unfussy shiny look.
The Eastern influence is so apparent in fashion that one is surrounded with beautiful kimonos with brocade, elaborate obi belts, cheongsam-style dresses, intricate patterns in red and rich oriental motifs. This theme will take on a more urban look with jackets being constructed in hi-tech fabrics and graphic Chinoiserie prints in more streamlined shapes. While the silhouettes have been showcased by plenty of designers creating their entire collections around the same theme; prints and patterns inspired from the East will be the main attraction in the future. Japan, in particular, has heavily influenced western fashion in the last two years and now it will be seen spreading its exotic colours and rich embroidered patterns into simple wardrobe staples like high-neck collars, wrap tops, belted dresses, kimono-styled jackets, full satin blossom skirts, and cheongsam-style dresses. These prints can now be introduced with an element of androgyny, such as a wide-legged pant suit; clashing patterns can be worn in high-collared designs and bomber jackets can have fine Chinese embroidery.
Creating out of chaos, the forces of nature provide inspiration for distinctive prints. The water creating ripples in concentric circles, the frenetic swirling winds; these elements when disturbed or agitated, release tension that suggests volume and depth. The prints are a culmination of watercolour, haze and smudged effect which will be taking the fashion industry by storm once again. A dreamy print effect which resembles multiple layers and a blurred effect will be strongly favoured. Ikat inspired, ink saturation, rippled and wavy, distorted imagery, filtered prints, twisted and warped, all contribute to the trend. They are a perfect symbolism of nature and human beings connecting and represent the beauty of nature where the imperfections stand out. This can be given a futuristic look by playing only with earthy tones, or a psychedelic look with a bright palette where the tones are saturated.
The coming season, in all industries and categories, is about rediscovering texture and its many facets. The 2000s have been about the minimalist aesthetic which is clean, crisp and understated but this has resulted in visual monotony. Designers will now strive to innovate by juxtaposing highly contrasting materials and textures and using 3D techniques. Designers will breathe life into coarse, wool, natural fibres to break up clean, minimal silhouettes. Hand skill and machine creativity will be at an all-time high where new textures will be created that are unique and standout. Unfinished ends will be set against polished surfaces, texture and material contrast will capture the deliberate conflict of dissimilar materials coming together and being paired up with effortless forms. There will also be a noteworthy relationship between natural and hand-made materials or natural wool against glossy synthetic forms.