New York Fashion Week Spring’14
New York Fashion Week Spring’14
Review- Altuzarra, Carolina Herrera, Creatures of the Wind, Diane Von Furstenberg, Prabal Gurung
Joseph Altuzarra, this spring, stumbled upon the world of thigh-high split and thereafter, there was no looking back. In shirts, unbuttoned till the waist, the Altuzarra woman flashed the length of her leg in below-the-knee skirts, flanked by overturned waists. Paneled shirts with accentuated waists, billowy kaftans and textured cropped jackets with tone-on-tone handwork gave away the designer’s uncomplicated design sensibility. The inclusion of indigo patchwork on summer shirts and the snug midi length- a spitting image of a cardigan and fitted skirt- expanded the appeal of basic separates. Sassy as it was, the evening wear further revolved around sharp pantsuits, leather fringes and radiating slip dresses. One of the defining looks of the collection, a draped skirt weaved in golden threads against a stark white top stressed the designer’s penchant for piercing contrasts. It hit hard and it hit right.
Herrera’s spring, swung between the romantic tale of graphic lines and a sisterhood of delicate fabrics. Think trailing gowns- some A-line and some sculpted- splashed in swirls of optical prints, shirt dresses broadening into vintage ball gowns with collage-esque patchwork and embellished organza overlays as vests or flounce details. The necklines on gowns had an almost exclusive territory of their own ranging from décolletage and strappy to cowls and turtle-necks. The collection did have occasional sightings of day wear separates- boxy tops, printed shifts, short coats and loose-fitting trousers- but it were the midi length skirts which stood out for their play of fabric and print. The geometric prints were laid out mostly in blacks and whites with a dash of sap green, creamy browns, complimented by sudden bouts of deep berry, icy green and burnt orange, used both as accents and solid colours.
Creatures of the Wind
The Spring Summer 2014 collection by the quirky duo, Shane Gabier and Chris Peters, was a casual affair with a dash of femininity. Clean lines, straight fit knee length skirts, boxy jackets and loose trousers were the key. Each look was combined beautifully as the colour palette played with pastels like powder blue, bubblegum pink and cream, colour blocked with tomato reds, mustards and metallics. The line was quite easy on the eyes as prints took a backseat this time, with only python print being used for paneling. Colour segmentation was used aggressively on coats and dresses, with a limited use of rustic flower embroidery and patchwork. The metal knit sweaters and loose pajamas paired with a sweater having mesh inserts rendered to the use of modern hi tech construction of the garments. A clever use of scarves, polo necks and buttoned up shirts were incorporated and the silver basketball shorts gave a sporty touch to the collection too.
Diane Von Furstenberg
From her pre-show statement, DVF’s intention behind her SS’14 showcase was to spread some much needed joy and ease. And so HAPPY was the motto on the runway palpable in the hassle-free clothes and on the uncharacteristic smiling faces of on-duty models. The presentation started off with a monochromatic set of looks accompanied by some reds, all on customary silhouettes of a dress, skirt or a jumpsuit. What succeeded were poster dresses, bra tops clubbed with skirts and pants along with languid maxis and some standout prints; lions and zebras roaming through the savanna being the standout. Another noteworthy print was the one resembling textured wooden surfaces and the beaming face of red-head Karen Elson in a billow sleeve maxi.
Dichotomy seemed to establish itself well at Prabal Gurung’s, whether in the contrast between the 50’s ladylike-Marilyn Monroe inspired- silhouette and the futuristic constructions with iridescent surfaces or the stern looking models with slick hair and gleaming lips but wearing vibrant colors with playful motifs. The sheen of the icy pastels and acid brights was an inevitable highlight. The silhouettes, as much of an old world charm they had- in the tweed, cropped pants, wiggle dresses, opera coats, narrow pencil skirts- were sharp and futuristic. The curving panels of a glistening mint green bomber with white bands on Karlie Kloss made her look like a transport from a sci-fi fashion fantasy. Then there was the colorful and printed PVC. The line-up transitioned beautifully to a series of strapless satin dresses and then to some with ruffles, feathers and closing with sequin.
Image courtesy: www.style.com