New York Fashion Week Spring’14
New York Fashion Week Spring’14
Review- Alexander Wang, BCBG Max Azria, Jason Wu, Rachel Comey and Victoria Beckham
It was a takeover of Nostalgia from growing up in the 90’s at Wang’s SS’14. Short lengths, bold logos and the constructions were the underlining elements at play. A bit slouch and a bit sporty, the looks were evocative and at the same time Wang signature high-street. Talking about signature, the cut outs and the perforations on leather , the straight dress silhouette- which at the end had a Xena the warrior’s wardrobe like quality- all acted as the designer’s strengths for their pleasant consistency through seasons. The silhouette contours were formed by tennis skirts, cropped uppers and a stand out sweat shirt with sheer panels and an explicit warning message, all on a palette that was mostly black and gray with some muted pink and purples. Other definitive 90’s elements included the button ups, high-waisted shorts with the occasional slip- the slip dress that is.
BCBG Max Azria
The designers, this spring, found their muse in the modest ‘shirtdress’. What followed this fixation, were a series of clean but charming interpretations of the classic silhouette. As cuffs made for statement sleeves layered with different lengths, the designers experimented with lapels, uneven hems and barely-there peplums in quality menswear fabrics. While georgette and sheer mesh panels called out to the feminine tastes, and gave the shy chambray a playful spirit, a cropped shirt with a hint of flounce on either side of the bust had the designers open the formal shirt to a world of structural possibilities. Giving in to translucency for the latter part of their offering, paneled maxi dresses and tunics, charted in dark floral printed sheer, shared a similar effortlessness in the silhouette as of the shirtdresses, if not the novelty.
There was glamour, edge of a modern woman and a casual sportiness, all with an enclosing attribute of ease on show at Jason Wu’s presentation for spring 2014. The sequined dresses, safari suits, sweatshirts with pulled up sleeves and some boudoir elements like slip dresses although had silhouette disparities but were worked on to be brought onto almost the same levels of occasion and functionality. A sequin dress for instance was paired with a flap safari jacket to bring in the more routine functionality whereas a sweatshirt with an enhanced surface with a gathered lace overlay made it more formal than casual. The restrained palette was a transition from whites and lights blues and champagne to midnight blues and blacks. The construction throughout a smooth precision to it whether in the unstructured safari-suits in fluid suede or silk crepe that had a characteristic work wear quality or the separates in the form skirt ensembles and dresses.
Rachel Comey welcomed spring keeping a fuss-free woman in mind. The collection, which kept a safe distance from dramatic ensembles, fed on character, in details, for impact. Hems were tattered on otherwise plain denim culottes, the cap sleeves on poplin tops were mildly gathered and lace peeked through long coats, crafted in traditional knit patterns. ‘Easy chic’ was a message articulately put forth in straight silhouettes- whether it was for loose-fitting sundresses with gathered necklines and droopy sleeves or for the front open, belted jackets, which were unapologetically simple in construction. Although the single-tone skirt sets and jumpsuits were the key highlights, the collection did take a somewhat fancy leap with full-lace jumpsuits, mesh skirts and dresses in printed velvet.
Victoria Beckham’s collection on a quick glance is an overdose of minimal and on closer view, an evolved resurrection of the same. Figures, this spring, were not wrapped in Beckham’s signature body cons but were rather proportioned in cleverly fluted hems and boxy jackets. The designer- restricting herself to create within the frame of the body- played with buttoned-up sheer shirts and understated slip dresses often worn over trousers with a natural slouch. A line of pleats, peeking from the angular hems of skirts, dresses and even tops, nattily pushes the collection to realms of sportswear, so does the sheer bomber jackets. Embellishment made a subtle appearance in the form of tessellated triangles paneled on plain white shirts. Expectantly, the colors alternated between blacks and whites, occasionally wandering amid shades of bright pink and dull red.
Image Source- www.style.com