New York Fashion Week Spring 2014
New York Fashion Week Spring 2014
Review- 3.1 Phillip Lim, Michael Kors, Lacoste, Proenza Schouler, Tory Burch
3.1 Phillip Lim
Ecosystem was the theme surrounding Lim’s Spring Summer collection, where models walked on a ramp covered with salt crystals. Models in reflector shades set the show rolling in peplums and A-line skirts in hues of olive, canary and white with utilitarian details like visible stitches. Drawing inspiration from geode formations and the swirls it creates, the line had plentiful emulsion patterns in gleaming blue and sea green, tie dye in earth tones and abstract animal prints. Kimono sleeves and 80’s work pants seemed like the designer’s favourites, with clear trends of patchwork fringing and foil seeping through the creations and mesh making up for the sheerness embedded in the season’s offerings.
A Michael Kors woman is a woman on-the-go yet, she never fails to impress in a spiffy outfit. Kors, this spring, flirted with the idea of contrast- a definitive fixation of designers at NYFW- by pairing A-line sheer skirts and printed dresses with finely constructed blazers. Swinging occasionally along the 70’s staple trench coat and hippie trousers, the collection, for the most part, presented tailored formal wear injected with a calculated dose of femininity. While the puffed sleeves worked onto a chiseled leather jacket extended to full sleeves in Victorian-inspired day dresses, the pin-up style gave way to a string of fifties-inspired separates- leaf-print bralets, high-waist shorts and fitted skirts in shades of sap green and brown. The collection, however, did not once deviate from its signature American sensibility- the cheery dresses were held together by tan belts, the blouses were tucked neatly in knee-length skirts and the Victorian collars fell neatly on khaki overcoats. Refusing to snap out of the fall vibe, Kors sent out his models in fur wraps, wool coat dresses, oversized cardigans and sleeveless sweaters which interestingly, served as an exciting teaser for the coming winters.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista offered a tennis inspired collection this season, with true minimalist cuts and simple lines. Shades of midnight blue, bottle green and rust brown were played out subtly with shots of pastels. Suits were well tailored and looked sharp with visible piping details and panels outlining the outfits in contrasting colours. The designer boldly experimented with head to toe wool and suede looks, the suede drop waist shift being the perfect example, and sheerness seemed almost like a craze. The last few looks were an all white canvas, with graphic futuristic patterns and a clever play of opaqueness- of cuffs, pockets and collars- and transparency on raincoats, dresses and cropped pants.
Spring has never been this calm and with Proenza Scouler’s latest offering, the season has taken a stronger yet tranquil character. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s collection was an intriguing play of textures, whether for the pleated skirts, fused with lines of silver foil, the three-way layered sheaths printed with mesh of branches or their shimmery midi lengths paneled in thin optical lines. Textures aside, the designers continued their fall story in the season of spring with structural constructions; the pleated three fourths, boxy jackets with round shoulders, controlled peplums on tops and wrapped dresses with long V-necks, all pointed toward the highly engineered future of craftsmanship. The black pantsuits with edges printed with what resembled as spontaneous lines of spray-paint, added a distinctive vibrancy to the collection, the one that was translated well on metallic cropped tops as well. The winter man coats, however, took the spotlight with their creamy colours, geometric lapels and unusual closures- ranging from cinched fits to languid contours.
Tory Burch, the go to designer label for the casual exploits of New York elite, in the recent while, has definitely carved out its space. This space now in a customary fashion would be explored, season after season for routine wearable delights. The spring offering was about romancing the 60’s and very aptly doing so through the influences of the actress Romy Schneider in the 1969 French movie La Piscine. That of which, the silhouette was a complete and clear testament, in the cropped pants and collared shirts, short lengths of the shifts and skirts and lean maxis and full sleeves. The springy florals and a palette with subdued candy and pastels were signature Tory Burch, along with some metal. And what infused more of summer and spring was the bikini and beachwear evocative of a lax summer getaway.
Image courtesy: www.style.com