Wills India Fashion Week Spring 2014-Day 1
Wills India Fashion Week Spring 2014-Day 1
Review- Annaikka by Kanika Saluja, Gauri & Nainika, Malini Ramani, Masaba Gupta, Nachiket Barve
Annaikka by Kanika Saluja
Anarkali with dangling spikes, paisley embellished bodysuits and bustier choli with strategic cut outs-Kanika Saluja, for spring 2014 took up Indian wear with a ferocious air, amalgamating with it a pinch of her inherent punk spice. Spiritual yet fierce, the collection boasted of heavily studded turtlenecks on princely robes and traditional gowns flanked by gradating and fluted hemlines. Saluja, however, did alternate between the idea of modern and conventional femininity as she constructed a wide-legged jumpsuit with a sari-like drape together with garara bodysuits. The mirror and bead work, an obvious Rajasthani influence, surprisingly seemed to blend rather well with her dramatic ensembles, so did the delicate lines of pearls on top bodices. The designer, with her foray into full-fledged Indian wear, was certainly taking a dicey leap but with her parade of seriously bejeweled ensembles and hybrid silhouettes, a strong case of edgy Indian wear was made.
Gauri & Nainika
When Indrani Dasgupta walked down with her fresh-as-a-baby face, in a red and white striped pencil dress with pleated flounce, we knew the collection befitted a girl on vacation to région parisienne. Fabrics such as chiffon, crepe and organza were incorporated, for a fluid collection of floor sweeping dresses, jumpsuits and playsuits with exaggerated flounce and ruffles. Umbrella stripes and landscape prints were present in bold colours, with deep backs, halter necks, obvious trails and one shoulder ensembles. As the closing show, there was a vibe of lightness and freshness that one was left floating around with, a fine commencement for the summer awaiting us.
Fashion’s blue eyed girl, Malini Ramani, stirred up some magic and wanderlust– as she would have us believe- for her spring journey. In sync with the feisty escapades of a fearless traveller- the collection switched effortlessly from chic day wear to seductive evening looks. The models glided and how, in sliced swimsuits veiled by breezy kaftans and trailing outerwear, their seduction befitting the intoxicating chants of the opening score. The collection kneaded from a host of influences did get astray amid patched gypsy skirts (with godet panels) and occasional tribal prints but was pulled together nonetheless by an army of Sari gowns, draped and accessorized to perfection. In a playful contrast of sorts, the silk jersey saris and soft net kaftans stood out for their serene glamour and dual tones as opposed to the dangerously sequined cocktail gowns. One would assume spring adventures are never bereft of partying and Ramani’s vagabond is sure to let her hair loose in peek-a boo bodycons and playsuits, all overwhelmingly splashed in sequin.
Masaba’s show opened with a boost of energy much needed for a morning show on the first day, with Alia Bhatt clomping down the runway to Run the World (Girls). The message remained quite straightforward throughout- sporty chic, an established trend on the SS ’14 international runways. Signature block prints were in attendance, in the form of checks merging with polka dots and a machinery like stamp, with some traditional Benarasi Zari ones thrown in too. Trackpants, box pleated tennis skirts and snug golf sweaters were infused with sporty shoes and knee pads. Owing a great deal to transparency, mesh was blatantly used in ensembles, not just as inserts, but for the entire article of clothing itself. In terms of construction and originality, nothing new met the eye which was worthy of attention or inspiration.
Barve’s “Fossil” collection proved to be a soothing delight to the eye, showcasing the union of fragile with the raw- rust pinks and onions merged with beige and grey. Kimono sleeves, straight fit trousers and midi length dresses gleamed on the runway with 3D like dragonflies and Ginkgo biloba leaves in bloom for spring. A crossover paneled bra top looked edgy, in addition to the intricate beadwork and appliqué on the raw silk, georgettes and cottons he pleated and wrap-dyed. For the finale pieces, an army of red glided by in flowy trailing silhouettes, incorporating beautifully a thigh high slit skirt, a heavily embellished cape, a gravel embroidered gown with mesh inserts, a block printed sultry sari and a boudoir robe. Barve buffs were left satisfied with his typical season style and sensibility.