Wills India Fashion Week Spring 2014- Day 3
Wills India Fashion Week Spring 2014- Day 3
Review- Bodice by Ruchika Sachdeva, Dev r Nil, Namrata Joshipura, Payal Pratap, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, Sanchita
Bodice by Ruchika Sachdeva
Indian fashion-clichéd as it might sound- has been hit by a wave of change, a wave Ruchika Sachdeva -along with a few others-has calmly mustered. For spring 2014, the idiosyncratic designer stuck to the hues of greys, blues and dusty pinks, primarily focusing on further refining her signature androgynous style. She threw long sleeveless jackets over languid dresses, layered transparent tops with breathable tunics and crafted collarless boxy jackets with panels. The drop sleeves on garments exuded a vibe of ‘easy chic’, which was shared by the boyish culottes as well. Every look-clean yet, crisp- endorsed a structural ease of sorts which is synonymous to the brand. The models, in their uncomplicated ensembles, looked as if they belonged to some underground gang; if it existed Sachdeva could very well be heading it.
Dev r Nil
Drawing inspiration from vintage and the free spirited woman of the 60’s and 70’s, the pair delivered a stimulating collection of cropped tops, bolero jackets, palazzo pants and swaying skirts. The duos signature print mixing was in obvious presence, with Art Deco and Art Nouveau frames, all made to appear cohesive in nature. A darker palette of black and grey played down colours like mustard and burnt maroon. The male models were dressed in smart bandhgala waistcoats and kohlapuris on foot. Print and embroidery were merged, in addition to a delicate lace developed specially by and for them. Each piece stood out from the other, making the collection an exciting selection.
Electric poles were erected along the sidelnes of the ramp at Namrata Joshipura’s spring presentation, possibly in light of the electrifying show ahead. There is no doubt that the designer has a way with her techniques- the intricate embroideries felt energetic, the abstract prints had an intensity about them and the colours- icy shades, pepped-up neutrals and fleeting tangerines- stuck for their subdued glamour. But the aforementioned sensibility is a familiar territory for Joshipura; what was essentially novice, in this collection, was her take on the sportswear trend. Following this interoperation were a series of evening wear separates, cleverly tweaked to be paired with sporty basics. Shorts were paired with glistening tunic tops, t-shirts were heavily textured, waistcoats stretched to knee-length dresses and sheer side seam panels shone on sweatpants. The evening wear category, in signature Joshipura style, was well held by jumpsuits with sequined lapels and slip dresses, which could easily be traced back to 90’s fashion. In this mélange of contrasting styles, nothing could have fit better than the winged sneakers, courtesy of Adidas Originals. Joshipura knows how to tap on a trend and make it her own- a quality of a seasoned designer.
The designer produced a light breezy collection, “A walk in the park,” as she called it. There existed an obvious influx of the shirtdress, a sure popular on the runways this season, with variations of sorts. Fusing modern elements with the traditional, in the form of peplums and structured jackets with jodhpuri pants and chanderi. Fine embroidery was the highlight and so were the floral motifs, inspired from the printed calico, Chintz. Garments in hues of red, cobalt blue and ecru were layered with beige long coats or skirts. Framework and patchwork prints were enhanced, through a subtle use of colour blocking, giving the line an uplifting air.
Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna
The closing show for day three was definitely a shiny affair. Romancing with 90’s Hollywood charm, the pair brought out a train of slip dresses with unregretful slits, splashed in sequin. On a palette of silver, gold and copper, shone all the thumb-prints and hand embroidered details on the mesh tops and dresses. Suited for the season in mind and the theme of “Quiet Vanity”, the heavy silhouettes were rendered fluidity through silk and georgette trousers underlay. Peeking control briefs through sheer gowns and trails achieved through layering were instrumental in giving the collection its contemporary status. The ensembles were an amalgamation of the soft with the strong, in terms of fabric, drape and composition- a fine combination, indeed.
Fashion, around the world, is at the helm of a massive sportswear season, and Sanchita took the influence notches higher for her Spring’14 collection. Her treatment of the silhouettes seemed refreshing with every look, more so, because the garments had an intrinsic international appeal to them. Silk ski-pants, sweatshirt dresses, reinvented shirt dresses- a definite trend for coming seasons- and patent boxy jackets swaggered down the runway. But the designer was astute to not stop at the trend; instead she toyed with it as one would with their muse. She immersed her shirtdresses in heavy sequin, bejeweled the shoulders and collars on it and even covered her androgynous shirts in hand-painted prints. Whimsical embellishments aside, the collection had its threads coloured in pale pastels and perky neons. Sanchita-to the delight of many-has stumbled upon the world of sports couture, a feat that only a few can manage.