Textile & Texture, take the stage- Wills India Fashion Week A/W’14
Textile & Texture, take the stage- Wills India Fashion Week A/W’14
Kicking off with an innate fondness towards fabric ornamentation, Day 2 at WIFW was all about providing a third dimension to Indian fashion. Sidelining the conventional embroideries, fabric manipulations, different print mediums and 3-d texture developments were seen to be prevalent in the collections; be it on a bodycon dress, asymmetrical kurta or a saree. FFT takes you through the various interpretations of surface adornments and the key influences of the day.
1. The Asymmetrical Story
With different print mediums and embroidery experiments on high low hemline kurtas, floor-length sleeveless jackets and ankle length flared maxis, ‘myoho’ by Kiran & Meghana presented Soul Souk with an idea of bringing out the aesthetics of Morocco. From asymmetrical dresses with quarter length sleeves in bright vermilion red to sleeveless shirt-dresses with semi-sheer shirt jacket in Persian blue and slate black, ‘myoho’ embraced every pattern manipulation technique known in its own design sensibility. Incorporating architectural and stencil prints on silks and cottons, the collection projected an overall sensation of yogic serenity and grassroots aesthetics with its long tunics, wide-legged pants and gathered wrap-around skirts.
2. Of Cords and Threads
Drawing inspiration from the Raag Bhinha Shadja of Hindustaani Classical music, Vaishali S took the viewer on a pensive and wistful journey with her collection. Revolving around basic fabric manipulation techniques like cord embroidery, gathering, pleating and pintucks, Vaishali created an exquisite amalgamation with woven jamdani techniques. Foretelling an inter play between the beginning and the end, the garments were garnished with textured cord embroidered rhombus booties and acanthus motifs. Capturing the mood of the collection in evenly tied beads and woven wool patterns, every garment gave a hint at a possibility of its own personal story.
3. The Texture Play
Creating breathtaking 3D textures with twisted chiffon cords, Rimzim Dadu added an artistic and ingenious dimension to her village. By attaching and sewing chords of different sizes in distinct patterns, the collection obsessed over breaking leather and chiffon into smaller units and re-assembling these back together building a new array of fashion shredding. Finding inspiration from the Patola weave technique of Gujarat, Rimzim played with broken geometry, chevrons, diamonds and flometric patterns giving illusion of ikat weaving.
4. Graphic Prints
In the midst of loose fitted tunics and knitted sarees, Kallol Datta 1995 portrayed an extreme sense of fashion in a unique way with an astounding range of digital prints. Translating extreme enthusiasm and provocation into variety of prints, Kallol made an honest attempt to create an imprint of rustic and pastoral textures merged with geometric designs. Exploiting digital print technology to the core, models were seen adorning lozenge face prints illustrated with a graphic feel. Bringing out the beauty and obscure nature of blow painting in bright reds and tangerine on tunics and sarees, the printed patterns stood out owing to their own fiery identity.
5. The Microscopic Reality
Taking metaphoric textural reference from the luminous, strong and beautiful, Anand Bhushan took out some shiny fragments from his laboratory and set them free on the runway. Creating an array of surfaces by magnifying the cellular construction of crystalline and amorphous substances, the collection was synergised by an added 3-dimentionality. Molecular grouping revealed with fused plastic, atom formations, DNA strains and chromosome structures were brought into life using varied sizes of beads on polyamide, acrylic, metal and leather mediums. Leather appliqué on net and silver metallic stripe dress spoke about the hazmat suits and aluminised shells with a menacing luminosity.
6. Maia Warriors
Nachiket Barve’s ‘Maia’ warriors walked on to the ramp imbuing a balance of toughness and femininity. Getting inspired from the costumes and tattoos of the Maori, Nachiket engraved his interpretation of original Moko tattoos on the garments. Sheer organza and raw silks were rendered with spiral patterns in French and bead embroidery, embellished with sequin. Woollen felt appliqué, laser cut tattoo patterns with embroidery and perforated faux leather surfaces were strategically used to create trompe l’oeil effects. Rectangular cut faux leather was put together with satin embroidery stitches to resemble the surreal Waitomo caves, with billions of glow worms suspended in the dark. The motifs of spiral and fern incorporated with tie-dye fringes brought the tribal feel to life.
7. The Glam Brigade
The ramp dazzled when Amit GT clad models walked in with a feel of baroque oriental as if to mock the dark and damp temperament associated with fall- in luminescent embellished gowns complete with plume clutches. Catching attention were the heavily embroidered cocktail dresses with intricately laid down sequins and beads sewn on to the delicate layered sheers as well as, silks in jewel tones and tertiary hues. Amit’s perception of the ever so complex woman came out brilliantly with his all over sequined and embellished bodycon dresses and gowns.
8. The Indian Glam
The aura was radiant with cooling blues and fiery reds as Charu Parasher’s heavily clad beauties ambled down the ramp. With an eclectic mix of chic western and Indian wear, Charu’s united diversity was as if out of a Mughal fairytale being called the ‘Blue Blood’. Complete with sheer bodices, fitted toggle coats resplendent in rich silken attire and “resham” patch work, the embroideries highlighted with sequin received a glamorous twist. Silk was printed with leaf and floral motives and were tinted with threadwork to shape the fabric into an illusion of brocade, decorated with sequins.
9. The Conventional Contemporary
Playing with circular placement embroideries with tear-drop motif, Malini Ramani’s ‘High Octane’ party wear collection was all for the glamourette’s out there. With a slouch towards the Indian sensibility, the appliqué work on jumpsuits and hand chain stitch embroidery on dresses, cropped jackets and sarees, had a modern and contemporary style for the new-age Indian woman. Embellished with sequins, shells and mirrors on silks, jerseys, tulle and chiffons the pieces stood out in the simple palette of black and white offset with gold.
10. Calming Grace
In a soothing beige palette, Nikasha sent out an army of models swaying along in floral printed chiffon layers underneath embroidered kaftans and tops. The same combination was repeated all through the show in silk tops and sarees with ombre effect. Intricate embroidery was seen on sleeves, front panels, and saree borders in creamy beige- merging ever-so-perfectly with the fabric beneath.
11. Embracing Embroidery
Rahul Mishra’s floral embroidered pieces found their inspiration in the eight petal white lotus. At his attempt to portray the journey of human race and the process of metamorphosis, the designer incorporated basic embroidery technique with an unusual twist to bring out the ethereal nature in the garments. Using variety of bullion knots, aari embroidery and thread work on sheer, silks, cotton and woollen jersey, the collection displayed permanent textures of bandhani on marino wool with intricate detailing.