Milan Fashion Week 2014
Milan Fashion Week 2014
Review- Emilio Pucci, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Moschino, Versace
There was chaos at Pucci, but a rather exciting one; chaos in the prints, the combination of silhouettes and other numerous details. But one thing very clear was the athletic sports quality palpable in the basketball mesh, gym shorts and the sweatpants. The high street aesthetic was worked in with Masai embroideries and a colourful clash of geometric prints. The overlap of athleticism with every aspect of the collection was much apparent, especially through the wrestling belts that started with the first look and continued till the very last one. The shorts and pants were imparted a draping element, giving it a multifaceted character, if the contour was of a sweat pant, the draping bestowed upon it, a dressy appeal. The other silhouettes comprised of short dresses and just below the knee shorts and bra tops, with plenty of blazers, long cape hoodies and blazers to accompany the looks. The concluding looks were a set of intricate metal tops and pants with allover laser cutwork followed by long lean dresses, a blue one in particular with a harness around the neck and the bust.
The Armani theme was made loud and clear, “Gentle but gutsy” by the dualism of his collection- grey short suits and billowy baby doll dresses. Focusing on suits, everything was served on a platter, from half and half paneled coats to peplums to cut outs to snake prints; including monotone colour pop coats in fuchsia and blue iris. Drifting away from the corporate boardroom and stepping into an ethereal world, georgette translucent silhouettes made an appearance with florals illuminating in chalky lilac, pale pink and peach pastels. Hazy smudged prints with distorted imagery and splatter prints with ink saturation were seen in abundance. The designer fused water colour smudged skirts with filtered felt pen prints on diaphanous tops, which marked a clear resemblance to abstract artwork. To further the celestial vibe, the closing pieces on pairs of models, glistened in intricate waves of beadwork and sequin laden scarves, providing ample options to his Armani addicts for the whole season.
Frida Giannini gave a makeover to Gucci’s femme fatale reputation by introducing sport to this season’s collection in the form of mesh tops, basketball shorts and low slung dresses, loosely cinched with strings. Complimenting the brand’s fierceness- track pants, high heels and a triangle shaped bra is the way a Gucci woman dresses, for a run ofcourse. Gleaming florals inspired from Etro’s art on filmy dresses were spotted on deep V-neck dresses with thigh high slits. The slouchy, flowy construction exuded an air of relaxation as the models glided by. Kimono sleeves on silk wrap tops and strappy halter necks on dresses were incorporated, glaring in hues of purple, rust gold, blue and pomegranate. Ending the show on a high note, Amanda Wellsh, in her multi coloured sequin get up looked the part for a carnivalesque rendezvous of Rio de Janerio.
The Moschino catwalk was a celebration of 30 years of completion by the house. Iconic models, iconic clothes and imagery; the spectators witnessed them all. It was Rossella Jardini’s tribute to Franco Moschino and his legacy bequeathed upon her; the legendary cow print adorned by Pat Cleveland, the sparkling question mark sheath by Alek Wek and the newspaper print on Gisele Zelauy. Duets of models strut the runways, masquerading as saints and sinners in clothes that had a traditional disposition; in the skirt and jacket sets, the A-line dresses and the high-waisted shorts or the reds and the florals. The questionable absurdities of fashion experienced high points in effect in teddy bears on the head and around the neck of a model, or the croissant hanging by a chain around the neck of another and the classic jacket with golden spoons for buttons on Erin O’Connor.
Versace for SS’14 looked like Donatella’s Versace, her intrinsic nature ingrained in the clothes. The sensibility of rock echoed throughout the show in the heavy metal chains and studs, denims and plastics, harnesses around the torso, stapled skirts and jackets that were left undone halfway through. The silhouettes were something like ‘reckless chic’ manifested in open jackets, slits and strappy bandeaus. Where there were skin-baring body cons, there were also front open slouch jackets and tops, all adding up to the fierce quotient. Some abstract colour prints, baby blues plus, mauves and florals put more zing into the already edgy collection. The circle skirts were swinging just right in shiny raffia and the plastic(y) sheer especially the one worn with a white top whose collar stood alone sans the yoke. Crazy cool!
Image courtesy: www.style.com