Key Techniques Fall 2016
Key Techniques Fall 2016
After closely reviewing the collection put together by the designers during the five days of Amazon India Fashion Week 2016, FFT spotted a few key techniques that dominated most of the collections in each of the designers’ individualistic ways. These techniques were not necessarily season-specific, but it was intriguing to see how each of these designers had imbibed these techniques in their own personal style.
Gold Foil Printing
This technique was an apt choice for the India Modern theme as its effect resembles the age-old Warak or Gold Leaf Printing that has been done in India for centuries. This trend lets the designer cater to present-day-metallic trend, while keeping it close to the Indian roots. This effect of metallic golden printed on the surface was seen to be generated by blocks, screen prints and high definition print techniques.
Joy Mitra presented to us as overdose of silks on the ramp; his collection was rather a celebration that left no colour unused — blue, red, yellow, green, orange and lots of golden. Sometimes the silk flew freely and otherwise was covered under golden foil detailing.
JJ Valaya ensued regal vibes with men parading down the ramp with royal velvet blazers, paired with foil-printed pants. This menswear collection had an androgynous characteristic to it, with the details being focused on ruched sleeves and duppattas worn as sashes.
Rajesh Pratap Singh gave an interesting modern-day touch to the golden foil technique, as he used it on traditional hand-spun and hand-woven fabrics, although in a totally new manner by placement of motifs on top of windowpane checks. He played with a mix of geometric patterns and floral motifs paired, along with gold metal zippers, metallic neck and hand cuffs and asymmetric hemlines with contemporary silhouettes.
Péro startled us with its collection for the finale, in which the brand stayed loyal to the poppies this season yet, the techniques varied. Double-sided indigo coloured garments in cotton were decorated with golden foil poppies in sync with her FW16 classroom collection.
Abraham & Thakore sent their army down the runway donning brown-gold lightweight suede interspersed with golden foil in flouncy tops and hoodies paired with wide leg trousers and full skirted skirts
The latest trend in prints that has left behind all other media is Digital, and no wonder in today’s world that it is! This technique gives the softest hand feel possible with the most intricate details ever. This lets you print photograph like realistic images, landscapes and also sharp and clean lines for geometric/floral patterns.
Rohit Bahl demanded attention to his vampirish collection, with kaleidoscopic digital prints donned by men strutting down the runway in breeches and nehru jackets.
Pankaj and Nidhi used modern day geometric bohemian Aztec prints in eye-catching colours like neon reds, pinks and oranges to cast an impact with their collection.
Rohit and Rahul had an underlying influence of Pink City-inspired architecture digitally printed over satin forming the basis of asymmetric flowy jackets over tailored cigarette pants, asymmetric tops over silver sequined skirts and front open robes.
Reynu Tandon opened her show with strikes of neon eye makeup, adding a cast of spell to tribal-inspired kaleidoscopic pattern perused in both embroideries and similar digital prints. It was a creative mix of the medium and techniques put together beautifully.
When the theme demanded Modern India to be the focus of the fashion this season, the techniques no wonder were down-to-earth, yet making it look contemporary. Hand-stitched details and especially hand-done Appliques were all seen often.
Varun Bahl used techniques like floral appliqué, highlighting the flora and fauna inspiration through embellished flamingos, owls and blossoms romanticizing the ready to wear dresses. This collection was every modern girl’s dream yet keeping it simple.
Pallavi Mohan introduced a synthesis of handcrafted innovation, fused with modern day sensibilities in her collection. A defining moment in her show was when a monochrome off-shoulder Bomber jacket with floral appliqué details on the shoulders got everyone’s head turning around.
Gauri & Nainika, known for their unique take on fashion and colour combinations this season chose to enlarged flowers for their collection that were translated across through prints and appliqué s
Quilting is a key winter element that has been around time and again, and this season again it remained, but in newer and more interesting ways. Quilting sheets of fabric is a thing of past, the trend this season called for textured fabrics, already quilted or upholstered sewn together in simpler silhouette to create an impact that is nothing short of loud.
Sanchita used very contemporary approach to her collection and a no fuss sensual appeal. The silhouettes were within her comfort zone of androgynous clothing combined with feminine nuances and strong courageous undertones. The techniques used were many that took us along the designers journey but one that stood out was quilting.
Divyam Mehta drew inspiration from the wilderness and the textures of tree barks and to portray his deep love for nature he used innovative harmonious techniques like hand quilting, kantha work and resist dyeing. The designer has celebrated the amalgamation of the modern world with clean tailoring, along with the authenticity of nature.
Pankaj and Nidhi used quilting as a defining element for both their collection in the Fashion week. Quilting limits the designer to stiffer silhouettes yet, they managed to have an intriguing approach and a mix of techniques to enhance their garments.
This technique is the most basic fabric manipulation skill that acts as just another reason to add the extravagance to your routine garments. This excess fabric might come in forms of ruffles, flares or pleats but the idea remains to add exorbitance, and this season we saw many designers use the Pleat!
Anavila sent models down the runway draped delicately in layered sarees with vintage botanical printed pleated frills sneaking out from under them.A lot of attention to detail was relayed in terms of sleeve handling with pleated leg-o-mutton sleeves and pleated flared details casting a feminine element.
Rohit Bahl gave a new definition to collars for men this season with truly dramatic extravagant frilled necklines on formal blazers,tunic kurtas and flared hemlines.
Samant Chauhan brought to life, rajputana elements and and essence of Magnolias unique heritage with asymmetric hemlines, pleats and ruffle inducted layering to create flounce.
Though one can’t get enough of this trend in any season, this seems to test your creativity and sense of putting together a look that grabs many eyeballs.
EKA’S collection transported us to the mystic streets of dune-y lands, with relaxed silhouettes translated through boxy clothing and layering in cotton.
Lovebirds’ collection usually has an underlying universal influence that makes many elate to their perception of fashion and this season they used over-sized elements like boxy neoprene tunics, elongated sleeves and jumbo knits, all of which found themselves in layered in a statement look.
Sanchita’s collection kept it casual yet otherworldly, as layering was a key element with over-sized boxy shapes. The use of mesh as the prime fabric also enhanced the technique of layering.