London Fashion Week 2014
London Fashion Week 2014
Review- Ashish, Mary Katrantzou, Matthew Williamson, Preen
Considering his last two collections had rebel written all over them, Ashish Gupta has managed to identify a throbbing subculture of his kind. This time the designer crossbred cultures for his feisty spring collection, toppled with a massive dose of sequins. While doing so, the designer pulled the glamorous quotient back and let the nonchalance strike where models sported streaks of hair hued in tribal colors, their necks laden with chunky Indian and African jewellery. Carelessly put together after a party, in the wee hours of the night, the ensembles were youthful and laidback- Sequined vest over dropped crotch jeans, tartan shorts paired with striped tops and shiny-disco sweat pants worn under a breezy kurta. The tattered jeans, fully sequined, made more than a modest appearance, fused with a foxy leopard print and in another case, dipped in a spectrum of sequins. Similar was the case with polo t-shirts, also sequined, which was thrown over shorts with sheer trails and extended to shimmering polo dresses. The collection however, stood out for its interpretation of hybrid cultures; the frequent “Coca-cola” and “Thank you for Visiting” print on t-shirts was a playful take on consumerism of young adults, and the long kaftans imprinted in stylized Arabic words suggested the innumerable cultural influences breeding in a new-age city. The designer, on the whole, made more of a cultural statement rather than presenting any off-the-hook design variations.
Shoes were the focal point in Katrantzou’s SS’14 show; the shoes imprinted on the clothes that is. Large brogue motifs were achieved on structured but relaxed short dresses. Big shoe laces and perforations magnified on the fabric surface were realized tidily, accounting for another series of idiosyncratic prints by the designer serving well to her signature standing. First came the shoes and then, the flowers (big and small scattered all over the surface), much more vibrant and at times hectic, on a set of exaggerated volume dresses. Ruffles and blown out below the bust, the short floral garb was an interesting shift.
This year’s collection by the designer was definitive of a mature woman- the working kinds- with hemlines dropping and necklines rising. Starting the show with a clean cut monotone suit, the look was all business but slowly translated to more casual ones, with models parading down the runway, hands relaxing inside side pockets. Grown up predilections were assured in the wide array of midi-length balloon skirts, shirtdresses and sheer shirts paired with tapered pants instead of shorts. Not ignoring his trademarks, prints were in abundance, majorly cluttered by hand painted or drawn florals and dragonflies. How did he take this inspiration further? He added 3 dimensional flowers and dragonfly statement jewelery to make the message clear, it’s summer! Hues of tomato orange, lime green and blue revolved around monochromes with evening gowns full of chaotic oversized prints and the second last in white organza turned out to be an inspirational one in a peplum inspired cut with chiffon overlay, floral embroidery and green brooch like dragonflies gleaming on the silhouette.
Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi charted out a pretty neat spring, meekly toying with Preen’s alter ego. Opening to the tune of all-white ensembles, the collection familiarly merged geometrical prints with floral on boxy tops and sharp wrap dresses. The sharp cuts, a regular at Preen’s shows, were structured as angular flaps on either side of slip dresses and wrap skirts, interestingly linked by metallic buckles. Amid the crisp separates, the designers tossed a few breezy slip dresses, organza skirts and easy cardigans with diagonal placket details. The collection did take a step aside from the usual; the quilted skirts finishing in zigzag hems, the fitted dresses constructed in a plastic-y nylon fabric and the silver foil bomber jackets pointing toward an experimental space in design. Unfortunately, a few looks into the new space, the designers retracted to their known territory rounding with almost identical silhouettes as in the beginning, the only alternation being a stronger tinge of black toting up to a gloomier floral print.