FORECASTTranslating today's influences into tomorrow's fashion
A new winter in the pipeline calls for fresh looks and new trends. The season is more nostalgic than ever, with classic looks coming back, emerging from speckled emotions. Be it the Scottish Highlands that embarks on tradition and lineage, a sudden wakefulness of culture and customs spread across the globe or the demure outlines of a woman that classify a lady-like aesthetic in women’s wear, all consequent looks have one thing in common- “the need to find your individual self.”Moving parallel is another clan of youth culture that is abandoning the past and looking into an ‘imaginable – unimaginable’ future in search of answers, only to create unknown outcomes. Guiding spirits, not to be eft unmentioned, are the athletic vibes that are taking over the new millennial consumer with sportswear breaking from its confined notions and touching the comforting lives of a layman.
It is an interesting time for menswear; in the season we left behind, designers celebrated dark florals and dandy men with a few traces of technical elements. The experimentation has now been taken up with stronger force. Jackets, with complicated patterns and stitched in technical fabrics, have been sent on the runways unapologetically, often juxtaposed with elements of traditional menswear. Leather, of all materials, gets its due not just channelled in retro style jackets but appreciated for its effortless adaptability to ready to wear apparel.
Dandy does reflect in shrunken pea coats and short jackets but the season equally celebrates a cosy fit which draws attention to unconventional fabric qualities and fabric manipulations. Technical creativity stands out not only in terms of innovative silhouettes, but through unthinkable fabric combinations and treatments. Besides all the design enhancements, the season- in the real sense, belongs to hybrids. From fusion blazers and tailored sweatpants to shirt jackets and cape overcoats, designers did not shy away from putting forward avant-garde silhouette ideas. Fall 2014-15 has vehemently come forth as a season where past attempts at remodelling menswear have finally been realised, the influence of which gives rise to modern yet traditionally informed menswear.
Global Runway Report
Fashion weeks at New York and London are recognised primarily for their chic yet understated style, relying heavily on silhouettes appropriate for the ready-to-wear segment. Designers in New York aimed at tapping the workwear category focussing on relaxed silhouettes and menswear fabrics as the long coats, wide-legged pants and unisex blazers would have us believe. London, on the other hand, revelled in glamour for appeal, even though it was coloured in a rather unassuming demeanour. So while there were separates which aligned with the ones shown at New York, equally intriguing were lace, peek-a-boo gowns, flirty ruffled dresses, sequin splashed garments and more importantly, the hybrid skirts and dresses which have a vast scope as standalone separates.
Wills India Fashion Week
Wills India Fashion Week A/W 14-15 oscillated between two ends of Indian fashion- vibrant traditional and statement contemporary. However, a natural slouch was prevalent in collections whether for asymmetrical tunics or wide-legged lowers, amongst other things. Kicking off with an innate fondness towards fabric ornamentation, there were designers who sidelined conventional embroideries and indulged in fabric manipulations, different print mediums and 3D texture developments, be it on a bodycon dress, asymmetrical kurta or a saree. WIFW, in all its entirety, also belonged to the fashion innovators- with collections that emanated a strong aura and knocked on socially relevant subjects beyond popular trends, the designers went a step ahead to impart Indian fashion with not only a stronger face but a fiercer voice. Whether for Arjun Saluja’s crisp tailoring or Gaurav Jai Gupta’s flawless take on industrial workwear, the ideas were built on a seemingly mature understanding of wearable fashion. If Masaba Gupta’s cleverly executed, interactive prints are where Indian fashion is headed, then we have ourselves a promising league of transformers. FFT takes you through the key influences of the season and the ones shaping them.